Kayak Storage Hoist - Overhead Pulley System with 125lb Capacity for Canoes, Bikes, Ladders, and More - for up to 12-Foot Ceilings

I was looking for a hoist to attach to my home garage ceiling to lift the roof skin off and on to my 1964 Mustang so I could complete the prep work for welding the roof on. Without this hoist the roof was very cumbersome, and I needed a 2nd set of hands to remove it and place it on sawhorses and then place it back for test fitting (a lot of back and forth for 2 people). This item is very well made and a great value for the price. I highly recommend it for similar medium duty tasks!

Everything appears very well made. All the fasteners that you would need are supplied. The only complaint is that the amount of rope provided is insufficient for many applications. Per the instructions, they supply 52 feet of rope. Per the instructions, they suggest a 6 foot span between the two brackets. There are four trips down and back for the pulleys. And assuming you only let them get 1 foot from the ground then 9 foot ceiling would use 4 x 8 + 6 + 2 x N = 52 where N is the tail dangling when the pulleys are down. So here it would have 7ft tail which is decent. For a 12ft ceiling as stated you would be 4 x 11 + 6 + 2 x N = 52 thus N would be 1 ft. Now if you can reach 11 feet in the air to grab that 1 foot tail then you probably don’t need this lift in the first place. 🤣All that being said, just plan to buy some additional rope if you don’t have some 3/8 inch rope available and you have a tall ceiling. I would still strongly recommend the unit and I wish they would do a little math and provide maybe 68 feet of rope thus giving 9 foot tail on a 12 foot ceiling install.I use this to haul a roof box for a vehicle, both allowing storage and the ability to lower it onto the vehicle without requiring two people. I think it’ll work great for that application.

The roller housing, hardware, rope are all cheap but the cost is cheap. I think it all works decently well, the pulley is not very complicated to set up, DO NOT CUT THE ROPE until done threading through pulley system. I elected to drive the mount straight into the crossbeams instead of using a 2x4 support across them. I drilled out the holes in them just an nth and use much larger lag bolts, I reused the tiny lag bolts included for the rope tie down bar, which I also upsized slightly. Overall am happy for the cost as I had the lag bolts laying around but will likely need to replace the cheap rope in the future as it is already fraying.

This storage hoist is exactly as described. The directions for installing are clear and easy to follow. I purchased this to store my roof basket when not mounted to my vehicle. Rated for 125lbs it is more than capable of securing a 55lbs cargo basket. Be sure to anchor to cross beams or joist. All hardware included. Instantly gain additional storage space above.

These work great! We have two sets, one for each kayak. I thought about stacking the kayaks on one loop and storing them that way... I think the product would hold them up just fine... for me it was the hoisting them up and down... quite a bit of weight trying to pull two 10ft kayaks up.

Dope.Top of advice. When lowering, pull to the side and release one rope at a time. You have to teeter totter it down.

I purchased this hoist to store my 24 ft extension ladder on the ceiling. I have an 11 ft ceiling in my garage so clearance wasn't really an issue.I read other reviews that said you should replace the rope and lag screws because they were cheap so I bought replacements. I got slightly longer lag screws and a 100 ft polypropylene rope.My ladder is 12 ft long when collapsed. The measurement calculations in the instructions are for kayaks, not ladders so I decided to mount the pullies about 8 feet apart which would leave me a couple feet on each end beyond the hooks.I screwed the pullies into studs so I didn't bother with mounting the pullies to a board and then mounting the board as mentioned in the instructions. It's a much cleaner look for one thing. The lag screw holes are 1/4" diameter. I really wish they would have went with something larger like 3/8" or 7/16". I could have drilled out the holes but I didn't want to modify it and void the warranty.The included rope is a soft rope but it seemed like it would be OK for as often as I would use it (only a few times a year) so I went with the included rope. And like others have mentioned, I didn't cut a piece off the rope and cut the remaining rope in half. Instead I tied one end of the rope to the front pully and threaded it through and tied the other end to the rear pully.I placed the ladder on the ground under the pully and started bringing the hooks down to the ladder. As I did, the end that you would attach to the wall cleat started moving out of my reach. I should have went with the longer rope I bought. Rather than switch out the rope I decided to use the straps on the ladder. That gave me the extra slack I needed to reach the end of the rope when the ladder was on the ground. I adjusted the straps as tight as they would go because I wanted the ladder as close to the ceiling as possible.One thing I noticed is that you need a lot of room to bring the rope back far enough to unlock the pully system. Make sure you don't mount the locking pully too close to a wall or you won't be able to pull the rope back far enough to unlock it. A ladder is fairly narrow so it doesn't interfere with the locking mechanism much but I could see where a wide kayak might be hard to unlock because you can't pull the rope straight down and back.I'm sure these are strong enough to hold my aluminum extension ladder but there is one flaw in the design. To attach the rope to the pully you thread it through a hole and just tie a knot in it. The only thing keeping the load from falling on you is the knot you tied. I double knotted the rope to ensure it is big enough that it won't pull back through the hole but it still concerns me. They could have designed a more robust mechanism to secure the tied ends of the rope like a cleat or a clamp. I think the next time I have it down I will clamp a rope ferrule to the end of it to ensure there is no way it could come out of that hole.

Nice design, easy to install. However, if you have a shorter ceiling height, the top of the Kayak will be about 24 inches from the ceiling with the included straps. This is too low in a standard garage.I overcame this limitation using a ratchet strap from the front to the back (Down the centerline) and threading it through the flat metal under the lowering pulley. Simple to do, and it saves another 12 inches of space, and now I can walk under it. (I don't use the hooks at all. The strap goes above them in the pulley enclosure. I lower, loosen the strap, then unhook, leaving the strap in the pulleys. Works great!