BIBO 3D Printer Dual Extruder Sturdy Frame WiFi Touch Screen Cut Printing Time in Half Filament Detect Demountable Glass Bed

Bottom line up front: The printer seems to be very good (I've only printed a few small items with it, so I can't comment on durability, yet). The manual, as other reviews have noted, requires careful and sometimes imaginative reading to understand exactly what needs to be done. It is also possible that you will receive a printer with firmware and software that has been superseded by newer versions. Do not hesitate to contact BIBO when/if you run into problems; they will walk you through procedures, repairs, installations, and provide updates. Their customer support ranks among the best I have ever experienced. BIBO is in China, so they are 13 hours ahead of the US eastern time zone and 16 hours ahead of the US pacific time zone. They answered my emails sent around 23:00 US eastern time within a few hours, sometimes within minutes.Caveat to potential buyers: This printer requires assembly. BIBO supplies all the (metric) nuts, bolts, screws, and tools you will need if everything goes according to plan, but you should be prepared to serve as your own technician. You might need needle-nose pliers, a stubby Phillips screw driver, a flashlight (a wearable headlight is best), and your cell phone's camera (so BIBO can more easily and quickly understand the issue) in the event something goes awry. Sending photos along with the description of difficulties I encountered proved invaluable and made email exchanges productive.Printer arrived promptly. I unboxed it promptly to inspect for damage and found none. I didn't have the time to assemble it immediately and when I did, about a month after receipt, I discovered that the lead screw was disconnected from the coupler to the motor (see 2 photos), a nut was missing from the X-axis limit switch, and both extruder wire clamps were damaged (only 1 is needed for assembly). I contacted the manufacturer by email and received instructions overnight regarding reattachment of the lead screw (see the photos of the detached screw and the blue coupler and Z-axis motor below the printing compartment). The repair was very easy and there were sufficient spare nuts to replace the missing one that probably came loose during shipment from China. I haven't yet searched the boxes and packing material to see if it is there. BIBO promptly sent new clamps, along with extra nozzles and thermocouples.The printer comes with an SD card in a plastic case with all the manuals (there were 3 different ones, with different dates/version numbers; I worked from version 3.0a12), assembly videos (very useful since you can see what needs to be done), troubleshooting tips, Cura and Repetier slicer software, and machine settings for the printer, test g code files. The versions of slicer software turned out not to be the most recent, so when installed, they immediately wanted to upgrade to the current versions. If you do upgrade, you may need to get new settings files from BIBO since the ones on the SD card may not work with the current versions of slicer software. My SD card came with Cura 15.04.6 and a .ini file, but this .ini file fails with Cura 3.5.1, the current version. I installed Cura on my PC, let the software upgrade, and when initializaton of Cura 3.5.1 failed (I sent them a screen capture of the error message), BIBO promptly sent me links to the correct profiles to solve the problem.My printer came with a touch pad and WiFi capability. The printer connected to my LAN, but Firefox did not display an intelligible screen when I connected to the printer. I also noticed that the photos of the touch pad shown in the manual did not match what my touch pad showed. The problem was that the firmware was version 2.0.1, and version 3.0.3 should have been installed. BIBO sent me a link to the current version and instructions to install it. All that worked properly and my browser was able to connect to the printer and the screen was correct. However, although the touch pad display now matched the manual better, it was unresponsive. This was traced to the serial interface in the printer being 115200 baud, while the configuration file set the parameter to 250000 baud. The installation instructions provide a link to the 115200 baud configuration file, so this was an easy fix with a text editor. There is no 3.0.3 screen on the touch pad that gives you the baud rate information, so if you have a printer seemingly unresponsive to the touch pad, try changing the baud rate setting cfg_baud_rate in the configuration file (mks_config.txt) to a selection other than what's in your configuration file.If you edit your configuration file, or get a new one from BIBO, you will need to power down the printer, put the new mks_config.txt on an SD card, insert the card in the printer, then power up the printer. The printer will read the new configuration file and rename it to .cur.Once the assembly and slicer (I stuck with Cura; I cannot comment on Repetier at this time) issues were settled, I tried printing the test code for the cuboid printed with extruder 1. The extruder first moves to the front of the machine and lays down a line of filament to purge the nozzle. Then it goes to the center of the glass plate and prints a small rectangular solid. On my first attempt I did not apply glue to the glass and the filament did not adhere. An email to BIBO resulted in the advice to use the glue. That solved the problem and the second attempt was good.My second print was another small object, but larger than the cuboid, a model of a human liver, about 1.5 inches x 1 inch tall. The first attempt had sections that clearly were offset slightly from the rest of the model. See the photo (the one that looks a little like a sea shell). I had set the infill to 30% and had the slicer generate supports and a raft. Aside from the offsets in the print, I found I needed to heat the bed to 50 C to be able to slide an edge under the raft to dislodge the print. I also found that the glass plate could move very slightly, less than 1 mm, in the + or -X direction if I pushed on it. My printer did not come with binder clips shown as a possibility in the manual to hold the glass bed to the aluminum plate with the heater, and the manual instructed to push the glass plate down onto the aluminum plate between the leveling screws at the front and a pair of pins at the back. When I asked about these offsets in the print, BIBO told me that bed movement was the probable culprit, and that turned out to be true. Adding binder clips solved this problem and resulted in the second printed liver in the photos. The "liver" is standing on its right side; you can see one of the binder clips in the background and the front of the plate at the right and left, the raft and support, and the glue smear under the print, and a initial line of filament that cleared the nozzle at the front of the glass plate.This print's walls are very smooth and all the details from the original STL are present. I found it easy to remove the raft, but not so easy to remove the support material. That may require careful sanding. I view this as a function of the object to be printed and the slicing engine; I need to experiment with Cura's settings to find out if there is something to control the support material.All things considered, it was not really difficult to assemble and get running, albeit with a number of emails to BIBO. The items I have done so far have printed correctly. Don't succumb to frustration if your printer does not seem to conform precisely to the illustrations in the accompanying manuals. Contact BIBO and they will work with you.Update after 2 years:The printer has worked flawlessly. Among other things, I've made the holders for the PVC pipe holding filament spools in my dry box, body part models, and am working on lithophanes.

The bottom line of this review is in the title. The printer is good. BIBO's customer support is EXCELLENT.A bit about my experiences: I started on a Flashforge Finder a year ago, and recently upgraded to a Sindoh 3D WOX 1 and a Flashforge Creator Pro. The Sindoh started off wonderfully then just outside of it's return window, it destroyed it's own extruder system. Sindoh took their time replying to my request for help, so I reached out to Amazon.Amazon was gracious enough to take the printer back and refund my money to put towards a new printer: This BIBO Touch 2.Since my 3D printing experience is largely based on Flashforge's products, this BIBO has had a learning curve for me. The documentation included with the printer on it's SD card was very thorough, even despite the rough English translations.I have to confess, I got impatient. I didn't read the manual, I assembled the printer, loaded filament, and started printing. I've had a few simple issues come up, but as I write this, the BIBO is running and producing what I feel are the highest quality 3D prints I've ever made.Some of the issues I had were not understanding how to utilize the "Print copy" command, a filament jam, and an under-extrusion issue. Through all of those, Evelyn at BIBO was prompt, polite, patient, and thorough in her replies. She's also known the most likely causes to the problems I've encountered, and known exactly how to deal with it.Let me elaborate: When the Sindoh destroyed it's extrusion setup, after a few days, Sindoh finally replied and basically just referred me to their website. They claimed the nozzle was the cause even though I'd told them I was able to feed filament through the nozzle just fine. When my BIBO began under-extruding so badly it couldn't even load filament. It caused a jam which I was able to clear by reading the documentation on the SD card, then reached out to Evelyn for help. Within a day she sent me a list of the most likely causes and documentation to remedy each cause. Turns out I just had to tighten down some screws that were out of immediate sight. None of the probable causes she listed were irrelevant and none of the recommended fixes were generic (i.e. "turn the printer off and turn it back on")Back to the printer: I'll do a comparison of it to the Creator Pro and the Sindoh.Noise: By far and away, the Sindoh was the quietest printer I've had. This BIBO is moderate, Z hop movements are a bit noisy, but compared to the noise box that is the Flashforge Creator Pro, the BIBO isn't bad. I can hear the BIBO just outside of the room I keep it and the Creator Pro in, but if I go further away, I can't hear the BIBO. I can hear the Creator Pro running from anyplace in the whole house, and I am lacking in hearing these days!Tuning stability: Again, the Sindoh wins here. I leveled the build plate on that thing maybe five times the whole duration I had it. The Creator Pro's build plate is fairly solid, needing slight adjustment every other day or so. The BIBO's build plate needs slight adjustment every time I take the glass plate out, but I can't really fault it for that, especially given that I'm using another glass plate that's of different thickness (again, Evelyn willingly helped me find a second glass plate here on Amazon). Also, I liberally smear glue all over the plates, so that throws off the plate adjustment too. I'm sure if I left it alone, I wouldn't need to adjust the plate much.Print cleanliness: I'll compare the BIBO only to the Creator Pro since they're both dual nozzle printers, and the BIBO wins this one. Even though I know the nozzles aren't precisely balanced on the BIBO, it produces MUCH cleaner prints than the Creator Pro does. While I have to acknowledge that some features in CURA add to this, I feel the BIBO is cleaner in it's movements and controlling filament flow.Features/flexibility: The BIBO ties with the Sindoh here. The built in camera on the Sindoh was VERY nice to monitor prints. But, I sometimes run a laser machining center as part of my duties in my job, and I've been wanting a small CNC laser at home, and through this BIBO, now I have one! Mind, I haven't used it yet but will update this review when I do. I will list the Creator Pro for it's simplicity and reliability. Flashforge's products have never intimidated me, and working on their printers has been easy to do. Also, I 3D printed most of my Christmas gifts this year, and when the Sindoh went down and was sent back, the Creator Pro ran double time until I got the BIBO set up, and the Creator Pro did just fine.So in closing: I really like the Sindoh when I had it. But when it went down, it was caused by Sindoh's own proprietary filament cartridge! Sindoh wouldn't acknowledge that, and I was offended that they disregarded details of my description of the problem. I truly feel that printer had an electronic malfunction that led to mechanical failure. So nice as it was, I won't recommend it for purchase.If you're new to the 3D printing scene but want to dive straight in to capable 3D printer, I'd recommend either the Flashforge or the BIBO. If I hadn't been familiar with Flashforge's products when I bought the Creator Pro, I think I would have struggled with it as much as I did with the BIBO. So if you want a bit more simplicity and don't mind a noisy machine, try the Flashforge Creator Pro. Otherwise, this BIBO gets my vote. I can confidently say that even if it seems over your head, their customer service will do what they can to get you going on it!