Kreg KMS7102 Table Saw Precision Miter Gauge System - Factory Calibrated - with Miter Gauge Fence & Bar - Miter Gauge for Table Saw

The Kreg KMS7102 Precision Miter Gauge System is a top-tier upgrade for any table saw user looking for repeatable, highly accurate cuts. Right out of the box, it's factory-calibrated and requires minimal setup. The precision is spot on—it locks in angles securely and doesn’t drift during the cut, which is a major improvement over the wobbly, basic miter gauges that come with most saws. The fence and stop system are extremely helpful for making consistent crosscuts and angled cuts. The anodized aluminum fence is long, sturdy, and easy to adjust, while the adjustable bar fits snugly in the miter slot with zero play, eliminating inaccuracies caused by wiggle or flex. The angle markings are clear and precise, and the positive stops at common angles (like 0°, 22.5°, 45°) make setup fast and frustration-free. Whether you're working on fine woodworking or just want dead-on cuts in DIY projects, this gauge delivers. If you want to upgrade your table saw for greater accuracy, repeatability, and ease of use, the Kreg KMS7102 is worth every penny. It’s a reliable, professional-quality tool that makes a noticeable difference.

WOW! What a nicely made item! You have to put it together. There are like four small bags of parts, some of which you may not need, depending on your saw table. There are a couple of extras of some of the plastic parts. The instructions lists exactly how many you need and you only use them on the single step involving them. You might have extras. They will not be used later on in the installation. You did not miss anything. ;-) The "fence stop" parts are shown in the instructions in a manner that allows you to clearly see how they are assembled, but the instructions never mention where they go; luckily, the box has some excellent information and photos. There is a small part on the "Swing Stop" (the "support button") that is a tiny bit too thick, preventing the Swing Stop arm from fully doing what it needs to do. I found that I had the Nylock nut too tight. Once I backed off on it so that it moved as per the instructions, the support button was only a very minor problem. Perhaps buying a small, brass or teflon washer sized to match the two brass ones in the kit (and maybe half as thick, hence my suggestion for teflon) would make this fit perfectly. The self-adhesive rule is METAL, so the instructions to use strong scissors or snips is something you should heed. I used scissors, large ones, and may need to sharpen them after doing this. You get a four foot section of this rule and you cut it at 1 and at 25 and it fits just about perfectly. The trough it runs in needs to be cleaned first with an alcohol swab (or whatever) to degrease it. The trough is exactly the correct depth, but there is a little bit of wiggle room from top to bottom, so peel off about six inches of backing at a time, press the rule against the far side and then press it flat a little at a time. Then your rule will be perfectly aligned. (This is totally not important. I am just OCD when it comes to being as precise as I can with stuff like this.) The four "glides" that are installed into the fence arm are TIGHT. I had to press hard to get them started and then tap them in with a tack hammer to get them fully seated. They look like they could easily fall out or move; they won't as the fit is snug. The little lens came in a small ziplock baggie. The other parts were in sealed bags. I saved the ziplock baggie for the unused parts. (The main unused parts - for me - were a T-guide for the track bar. My table has a 3/4" slot with straight sides. Some have a T-guide to lock the attachments in place. This kit comes with a T disc and screw for the track bar that I did not use. Since I may purchase a new table in the near future I decided to save these along with the extra nylon adjuster pins and glides; I might want them later. The brass lock pin was missing in my kit and I was sort of pissed off about that. Then I took the thin, plastic tray out of the box. It has fallen out of its little cubby during shipping. It is the only LOOSE part on this device. You need to make sure that however you store this that this pin does not disappear on you. It fits snugly, and if you sort of torque the two fence and guide together a bit and then lock the protractor down the pin stays in place well enough. Excellent product. I like Kreg stuff and will buy more. Easily as nice as the Incra, perhaps nicer. Recommended!

I do segmented turning and also make some small boxes that generally are unusual in shape (trapezoidal, triangular, rhomboid, etc). I need to be able to do repeatable angles and sometimes do staved boxes that require longer rips than I can do on my Kapex miter saw. I own a Grizzly G0700 sliding table saw, which is a right-tilting table saw and with a non-standard T-slot so I had to make do with the OEM miter gauge, which means constant trial and error and a high scrap rate. Recently though, I added a 10" cabinet saw to my shop and did the usual, OCD thing of reading a zillion reviews of miter gauges and narrowed it down to the Kreg and of course, the Incra (having tried the Osborne and didn't care for it). I chose this because I like the ease of use, the flip stop and the easy to read gauge for dialing in precise angles. I also like Kreg products in general, so was a bit biased in their favor as the owner of a few of their other jigs. So I've been pleased overall with no negatives really save for two, which I'll get to later. Assembly is simple, straightforward and quick. Read the directions but still, dead easy. It took only a few minutes. They claim the gauge is dialed in at the factory and that is true as far as I can tell. Mine was. It's also very sturdy with none of the deflection that I was concerned might be an issue based on some other reviews. But I will admit that I don't make long cuts very often. Build quality overall is really nice and the fit and finish is the usual Kreg, that is to say, nice. However, I find that the plastic bushing between the flip stop and the end piece leaves something to be desired and leaves a bit of play that I don't like. You don't really have to account for it in your measurements, but I just don't like it on principle. The other knock is the nylon screws used to tighten the bar so it runs in the T-slot without play. The screws SHOULD come pre-installed and I'd like to see them made of a more durable material; perhaps a hard material with a nylon head or even kevlar or something. I have little confidence that these will last over time. Having said that, this is an excellent miter gauge that will last a long time. It is heavy, well-machined, precise, easy to read, easy to use and solid. I'd buy it again

The main issue with this miter gauge is the adjustment system for the bar that runs in the groove of the table saw. It consists of a few nylon screws that can be adjusted to take the lateral play out of the bar. If you have a smaller table saw (I have a DeWalt with an 8 1/4" blade), the miter gauge frequently will need to be pulled far back to accommodate a larger piece of wood. When the it is that far back, there is considerable lateral wobble until it is inserted further and the next nylon screw engages the groove. A better design would have been an expanding bar that is the correct width regardless of insertion depth. A second issue is not really a problem with the gauge itself, but rather something people with smaller saws need to be aware of. As I said, on a smaller saw with a larger piece of wood, the miter gauge needs to be pulled far back before beginning the cut. Due to the width and heft of the gauge, it will want to tip to one side. Taking these two issues together, when cutting a larger piece of wood on a small saw, you will need to work hard to keep the piece square with the cutting fence until the nylon screws engage, while simultaneously preventing the gauge from tipping to one side. It can be done but takes some practice. Otherwise, the gauge is a quality instrument. I have no regrets about buying it.

DO NOT BUY EXPENSIVE CALIPERS TO SET UP THIS MITER GAUGE!! Just use a ruler. Why? Because the scale on a miter gauge is NO MORE ACCURATE than a ruler. The expensive calipers are a complete waste of money and time in this application. How to calibrate this fence: Follow the directions supplied. Make sure the stop is locked down. Then take a piece of wood and cut a chunk off. Then measure the length of that chunk with a ruler. Just a ruler. Then set the cursor on the flip stop so that it exactly matches what you read off the ruler. That's all there is to it. A caliper can measure down to 1000th of an inch, but the scale on the Kreg AND EVERY OTHER FENCE INCLUDING THE INCRA can only read to at best, 1/64th, and that is highly questionable. 1/32" accuracy is more than enough to produce superb cabinetry, furniture, musical instruments, and boats, as long as you can get it consistently. The value of the Kreg is that it gives you that accuracy repeatably and with great convenience. Learn about how wood moves, it isn't rocket science, and then master some joinery techniques. You don't need to know how to make 5 different mortice and tenon joints, 1 or 2 are enough if you learn them well. Like Bruce Lee said, "I'm more afraid of an opponent who has practiced one kick a thousand times, than a thousand kicks once." Take the time to learn the skills, you will really enjoy it. The Kreg will help you with some of the repetitive operations and you will love it. Don't obsess over accuracy, and don't buy ridiculously expensive tools thinking that they will make up for your lack of skill. That is a fools errand. But don't waste your money on cheap junk, either. The Kreg is not cheap, but it is a good value.

Very nice. Built well. Huge upgrade over the one that came with my $4000 table saw.

I've been wood working off and on for over a year; shelves, bookcases, tables, raised platform etc. I'm by no means the next Bob Villa, but I do own basic tools including a DEWALT DWE7480XA table saw. I originally made my own jigs out of wood; one for cross cuts and one for 45 degree angle which worked very well, but unfortunately because I work out of a plastic shed I'm prone to getting termites on the untreated wood. I wanted to get something to replace both sleds that wouldn't attract bugs and this did the trick! Assembly was a bit more complicated than I thought it was going to be. You can install it on the left or right hand side of the blade, if you install it on the right hand side the measuring tape gets turned around and the stop gets assembled differently. I use this on the left hand side of my blade so I followed the instructions in the manual (which state they are for left side install,) however something to note is the pictures of the stop being assembled are for being used on the right hand side so you'll want to switch it around. The clear plastic magnifier lens is a pain to install on the stop and I didn't realize I had assembled the stop wrong until after I installed the magnifier lens and I had to use a mallet to hammer it back out again. The instructions say the trak bumpers are white, but they are actually black, I only installed 2 of them, one on each side of the bottom of the fence. You have to push hard to install them and then I gently hit them with the mallet for good measure. You may have extra pieces depending on your install; I don't have a t-trak so I have the double stacked washer, screw, 2 nylon adjusting screws (which are extra), and 4 bumpers (that I didn't install) left over. The construction is very sturdy, it's heavy, and easy to use. I like that there is a metal pin used to hold the degrees, the position stop allows for quick adjustments and the stop is very helpful. The instructions, while not completely correct, are still helpful in fine tuning the jig to fit nicely. Something to note is I started all the threading by hand first, because some pieces are made from nylon. If it's not going in smoothly back it out and try again or grab one of the extra nylon adjusting screws. My table saw top is a bit small and with this being so heavy it starts to tilt. I hope to remedy this when I make a work table with my saw set in it. For cross cuts I'd highly suggest installing a sacrificial fence. You are told to break a piece off the stop if you do this, but I'm not certain what happens if you don't, it seems like it would still work as a stop, but perhaps not hold the wood piece down as tightly. I made rabbets using this and it made the work go by quickly. I don't think this tool is a must have for every shop and if I didn't have a bug problem I wouldn't have purchased it, but I think it will serve a good purpose for my needs.

I needed a miter gauge that could be adjusted to 0.1 degree. There a two out there, the Kreg KMS7102 and the Incra 1000HD. Having read the reviews of the Kreg, I was a bit hesitant to purchase one as many have reported problems with nylon set screws used to fix the miter bar against the slot in the saw table. I decided to give it a try anyway as it is $50 cheaper than the Incra. Big mistake. Sure enough, the set screws would only go in about half way, before they became so tight the slots would strip off, exactly as described in many of the reviews. I tried using some lubricant and even sanded down the plastic set screws with some 800 grit paper, but to no avail. It looks like,the screws are slightly wider toward the slotted end so as you turn it in, it becomes tighter and tighter. Eventually you need so much force to turn it, the soft plastic slot breaks off. Anyway the item is now being returned to Amazon for a refund. This whole mess could easily be avoided by using nylon tipped metal set screws. I guess Kreg wanted to save a fraction of a penny on the set screws and wound up a totally worthless design.