Monroe Quick-Strut 139104 Suspension Strut and Coil Spring Assembly for Chevrolet Tahoe

fits well and relatively easy to install..did raise the SUV by a couple of inches which is good. the ride is as intended and performs the way it should. Good value.

Great value and performance for the money.

Used these to delete the Magna Ride struts. Several Youtube videos show the removal. Pretty easy. Prep your tools ahead to save up/down to tool box. Clean underside of vehicle for obvious reasons. Yukon only has 49k miles & MagnaRides struts were a leaking mess. Very impressed with mod and is well worth it. Not to mention alot cheaper. So much smoother. Highly recommend.

Great

Just install them perfect fit on my 2019 suburban and now I have a smooth ride

See pics attached. The first pic was the only one that appeared to be welded properly.The strut cartridge was not properly seated and welded to the mounting yoke on FOUR out of SIX of the products I purchased. I had to spend so much time and energy purchasing again and lugging these pretty heavy strut and coil spring assemblies back to UPS drop-off for return.There were MIG welding spatter BB's in-between the strut cartridge and the yoke, which prevented the strut cartridge from being seated against the yoke and resulted in anywhere from a 1/16" gap to a 1/8" gap on 4 out of 6 of these things.Only 1 of them was assembled and welded properly. The sixth one was almost as good as the first one, but still looked a bit rough, with a 1/32" gap, but thankfully no random weld spatter BB's in between the yoke and the strut cartridge.It was especially frustrating because you need to replace these in pairs. The 1st one I inspected was fine (first picture) The second one is in the 2nd pic. The third one is in the 3rd pic. I kept buying them, hoping to get a second one that was at least somewhat useable, so I could finally finish the repair. By the time I ordered the 6th one, I was exhausted from the whole ordeal. It took several weeks and hundreds of dollars to get this all sorted out.In the future I won't even bother buying any Monroe component for my vehicles. Too much hassle. Their Q.C. is non-existent and their fabricators just don't care to check what they're doing.

With a jack 2 stands and 13mm& 15mm sockets and wrenches this job can be done in less than an hour and a half in the driveway. They restored my sagging suburban ( same for 1500 trucks) to just above level settling to level in a few days, it rides like new again. Dont forget to get it aligned

6 years ago, had a 2015 Suburban LTZ. Front magneride shocks went out. was $3,000 to replace at dealership. At the time, there were no other options for replacement.Fastforward, picked up a 2018 Tahoe Premier (LTZ) for a really good deal and the front Magneride shocks went out. Did research and now they have shock simulators by xineering that make the vehicle think you have magneride shocks, but you have traditional shocks. I saved $2,500 by converting the magneride to these shocks and they RIDE GREAT!!!!Like others mentioned, it did pick the front end up 2.5-3". I'm interested to see what it settles down too.Note1: I've never replaced shocks/struts before and they had videos online that helped a ton. Took about 1.5 hours with 2 people and the right equipment.Note2: You need to rotate the tops of the struts until you find the correct alignment with the top bolts to the holes. When it is lined up incorrectly it seems like it is just a little off and it might fit, don't do it, rotate it until it goes in the hole easy.Note3: We chose to loosen and tighten the top bolts through the hood and not remove the skirt from the fender well. Worked great. It was helpful with 2 people as 1 can be on top and the other can be in the fender well helping align tools and nuts to boltsNote4: After aligning the top, loosely thread a coupl of nuts to keep it from falling out, then align the bottomNote5: loosen the bolt holding the swaybar to the A arm/wishboneNote6: The bottom may take some manhandling to get in. A crowbar to push the wishbone down, a wrench to rotate the bottom of the shock, and thin screwdrivers for hole alignment were helpful.